Wednesday, July 15, 2015

Prague Day 2


Sunday we woke up, showered, and ate breakfast at the hostel. The hostel breakfast was okay. They had a selection of breads with spreads, fruit, veggies, cereals (with warm milk though... yuck!) coffee, juice, etc. The regular European breakfast stuff. For extra money you could eat the hot served items. This was included in our free breakfast (because of the room mix up). A server would walk around with a cast iron skillet filled with sausages, bacon, fried eggs, grilled yellow peppers, and an egg quiche-like something with bacon and meat. Then she would bring out pancakes next. I would have loved to eat most of the items in the skillet, but had to unfortunately pass on them because of the pregnancy. Miguel enjoyed them, though he still missed the Intercontinental buffet.  






After breakfast we headed immediately to our first stop, the Old Town square and the Astronomical clock tower. I wanted to go there first to make sure we could purchase tickets to walk to the top of the clock tower. I was looking forward to capturing the beautiful views from the top.


Walking to the Old Town square was so fun because we began to see the magical streets of Prague! It seriously felt to me something like walking through a part of Disney World. I just kept repeating to Miguel "This is SO cool!". 




We arrived at the clock tower in plenty of time and purchased tickets easily. We headed to the tower. To get to the ramps leading up we had to walk up three or four tall floors of stairs. I was out of breath by the time we reached the ramps! Ummm.... about half way up the ramps I started freaking out a bit. Not too cool that you can see straight down to the bottom and out the little windows in the tower. Plus about this time I started thinking about the engineering from the 15th century and questioning it's stability (even though it has stood for hundreds of years... facts don't really matter too much to an anxious person when the fear sets in). I started feeling short of breath, got quite hot, and began sweating. I did somehow manage to make it all the way to the top of the ramps! Ummm but then we had to climb this rickety, spiral staircase to crawl out this small space to get to the top. I absolutely could not climb those stairs, so to the disappointment of Miguel, went (quite quickly and clinging to the wall) down the ramp to "safety". I told fearless Miguel to go to the top still and get some photos. He got some wonderful photos on our camera. Great views of the famous red roofs of Prague. 




Getting close to the top!

Scary, small, elevator in the middle.




The clock tower is famous for its mechanical characters that move when the clock hits the hour. We missed this while we were climbing the tower and decided to come back later to see the production. So next we headed through the Old Town streets to the Charles Bridge. The streets still felt like a fairytale but started to get really crowded, plus it didn't help that the streets were pretty narrow. Souvenir shops, currency exchange, and eateries lined the streets. That definitely took some of the authenticity away from the beautiful city. Luckily, Miguel and I happened to run across a Western Union and were able to receive our wire transfer!



Yay for Western Union!

Prague is known for its crystal


I found the streets and sidewalks in Prague and Berlin so interesting! They are made only of small, square stones that are pounded into the dirt. 




We made it to the Charles Bridge and it was already packed with people, even though it was only 10 am! We admired the bridge and views across the river looking to the Castle complex on the hill. Eventually we made our way onto the bridge and walked to the other side. All along the bridge are vendors selling paintings, photography, trinkets, caricatures, etc. Many singers and musicians also performed for tips, which I liked because it added atmosphere.









We found "buddy Jesus"





Once we crossed the bridge we had the daunting task of climbing the steep streets to the Castle Quarter. Luckily we made a few stops along the way giving us a break from the intense walk. We stopped once at a vendor to purchase a Trdelnik which is a pastry of dough, vanilla, caramel, walnut and topped with sugar, grilled and served on a stick. It was okay. We weren't really hungry but I was grateful for the sitting break.

No sign with words, only a picture of the item they sell 



We also stopped at St. Nicholas church. Miguel didn't want to pay to go in so I went in alone to take pictures. It was another over-the-top, awe inspiring building. Everything was gilded.








Look who I found waiting patiently for me! 
Hey bb!

Finally we made it to the Castle Quarter. The Castle Complex obviously houses Prague castle but also other government buildings, museums, galleries, the old town wall, churches and a monestary. Almost immediately after arriving we followed the huge crowd to the middle of the castle complex to watch the changing of the guard. We couldn't see very well but enjoyed the music being played, what little we could see of the ceremony, and taking in the views of St. Vitus Cathedral. 


View near the top of our climb



There was this Asian couple we ran into and the lady was posing in front of the landmarks doing really silly (but to her very serious) poses, so Miguel suggested I try to duplicate one... 
Oh, don't mind me Mr. Guard. Just seizing a picture taking opportunity... 





St. Vitus is gorgeous of course! It was started in the 1300's but not finished till the Medieval times.  Because we visited on a Sunday, the cathedral was closed most of the morning and didn't open up to tourists till 1 pm. Miguel and I explored the castle complex but repeatedly kept running into obstacles as everything required a ticket. I hadn't read much about everything costing so much so was really disappointed each time that happened. Miguel and I didn't want to pay for entrance fees.








A little bit after noon we were both already exhausted and hungry and looked for someplace to eat. Our options were either eating close by within the complex and going to a tourist trap or making our way back down the steep streets to find something more 'authentic'. We decided for the option within sight. It turned out to be pleasant, however, and also my favorite Czech meal. We ate in the 'shadow' of the cathedral which was really cool! It felt glorious to get off our feet. I had traditional goulash served in a bread bowl and like I previously mentioned it was the favorite thing I ate while in Prague.






By the time we finished up our meal, the Cathedral was open and we briefly stood in line to enter. Shockingly the cathedral was FREE to enter! No way! We couldn't believe it. Our amazement was short lived, however, as you could only pretty much enter the church before you were stopped unless you had a ticket. Sigh. What we were able to see was impressive.








Yep, couldn't go past this sign. 

After the Castle Quarter we headed down to the Jewish Quarter but unfortunately everything there was closed due to a Jewish holiday. Whomp, whomp. We thought this would be an opportune time to go back to the clock and watch the theatrics. We arrived in time and stood with another huge crowd of people. Miguel was ready to capture it all with his camera. Haha, after the clock stopped chiming he turned to me and declared, "I missed it!". He didn't, it just wasn't very theatrical. Back in the 15th century it would have been though. A few characters move back and forth and thats all. Think It's A Small World After All type of movements.



tombs stacked on top of each other, over 12 feet high at this point. 
Jewish cemetery... look how close together they are! We could only peak through a fence.  

Our hostel had made us dinner reservations for an authentic, 500 year old restaurant and we had about an hour and a half to kill before dinner. Neither of us had much energy so we found a park overlooking the water and enjoyed (once again) being off our feet for a bit. Eventually we got up and walked across the Charles Bridge again and headed to the John Lennon wall. The wall is a short section of wall that's heavily graffiti-ed and is, obviously, dedicated to the memory of John Lennon. Even here there was a company set up taking professional photos of tourists for profits. 


The castle in distance 
Yep, had to pay to use the toilet.



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We made our way to dinner, which was eh, okay. Miguel tried a beer that boasts the highest alcohol content (for beer) in the world. I think he would have enjoyed this much more if he didn't feel so rotten! I ate larded roast beef with white bread dumpling, sour cream and cranberries. Miguel ate pork haunch, smoked neck, roast bratwurst, red and white cabbage, white bread, potato, and bacon dumplings. My meal was fine. I don't think that Czech food will be something I ever seek out in the future. 





Miguel and I decided we wanted to head back to the hostel as we were both pooped after dinner and our long, long day. We both agreed Prague was a beautiful city and were so glad we've gone and seen it, however, we have no desire to ever go back. It was too crowded, tourist ridden, tourist-driven (too many shops targeted at tourists and everything had an entrance fee) and dirty feeling. But it was on my bucket list and am SO glad we had the opportunity to go!

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

Prague Day 1

Saturday morning we woke up, packed our things, and headed to the train station. There was some confusion about getting there by the metro so we last minute hailed a taxi. It was a quick drive by cab to the main Berlin train station. 

Goodness! This place overwhelmed me!! It was open level on level on level! People zoomed everywhere, a billion languages were being spoken, trains arriving and departing in every direction, shops of all kinds, and eateries lined the walls on each level, and tall, scary escalators zipped up and down in both directions. Thank God (once again!) that my Eagle Scout, Miguel, was with me! I think I pretty much just walked in and then immediately stopped and froze by the impact of everything. He figured out where we needed to go and I followed him to the very bottom level. 



We had to walk to the very end of the platform to board our wagon. We passed many wagons that reminded both Miguel and me of the Hogwarts Express which had some of us saying "expelliarmous" and "stupify" as we walked by. I'm really grateful we purchased first class tickets. We had so much room and seats together just the two of us. There were a lot of fellow Americans on the train ride, including a traveling senior group who made us giggle. 


The train ride was so fun! It was great to have a morning of relaxing with nothing to do and no where to walk! We enjoyed seeing the German countryside (mostly farm lands and large pastures) and small towns. 

Little train station we drove through 
Little train station we drove through 

Eventually the topography changed and old mountains popped up surrounding a peaceful river. We traveled along the river the rest of the trip. It was really very picturesque. There were also little villages here and there throughout the mountains. We saw a lot of cyclists, hikers, and boaters enjoying the area. 






The ride lasted about five hours. Miguel slept for about two. He really needed it, I'm sure, especially as he was getting sick. When he woke up we both enjoyed checking out the views. He also got some school work in and I knocked out an email to my family. We only had three or four stops so had very little disruption. We had a conductor come through and check our tickets (but not our passports) once in Germany and then again when we entered the Czech Republic. 
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haha caught ya sleeping!
Miguel takes classes on the side to continue his education. I guess a Masters in AE isn't enough for him. I love that he is so motivated!
Miguel modeling my Ostrich Pillow Light that I purchased for the trip haha

Driving through the Czech country gave me a glimpse of the economic state. It immediately felt poorer and dirtier than Germany. Also the language seemed much more foreign and even the people looked different - much much more Eastern European. 

When we arrived in Prague we purchased metro tickets and followed the directions to our hostel. It was a pretty quick and straight forward trip. Unfortunately the hostel somehow messed up our room reservations and reserved us a double twin room instead of a full. I was annoyed but there was nothing they could do at that point so we just rolled with it. (I think it might have been a kindness from God actually as Miguel got sick). They apologized profusely, gave us free breakfast passes for both days of our stay, and even sent over champagne to our room. 

The Prague metro is way, way underground. The escalators are pretty long, and you go down many levels of them.
Miss Sophie's. Where we stayed. 


Too bad I couldn't part take. pout pout

After we dropped our things in the room (which was actually just fine) we walked to a late lunch at a close by brewery recommend by the hostel. On the way there we decided to get cash from an ATM but we learned we have never set up a PIN for the American Express. We called customer service and they were happy to create one for us and it would be mailed to our home address within 7-9 business days. Long story short, I spent the entire meal on the phone with Amex figuring out how to do a wire transfer. I'm sure we now owe AT&T a million dollars. 

I wasn't too impressed with the brewery. Most of the customers spoke English and I was a little worried that it was a bit touristy. However, Miguel's goulash was really tasty! I was also pretty stressed trying to figure out the money thing (had to be me bc we only brought my card) and didn't have much of an appetite. 


After we ate we went back to our room to take a quick nap before we had clean up for our evening at the opera. 

We took the metro one stop up the road to Wenceslas Square. The square is more like a huge street ending at the National Museum with a large statue of Wenceslas. It reminded me of a scaled down version of Time Square. There were a lot of people, westernized restaurants (Burger King, KFC, and Starbucks are everywhere!), touristy restaurants (dressed up knights handing out menus etc) and street vendors. We walked down the street a bit to see if anything struck our fancy for dinner. Nothing really did and we weren't that hungry since we had a late lunch. Miguel ended up getting a sausage thing from a street vendor and I got an ice cream cone. 

Waiting for the metro

Wenceslas Square
Wenceslas Square
Miguel's dinner

After eating our snacks and some  interesting people watching we turned down the street to the State Opera House for our opera. I had been so concerned about possibly being underdressed (we packed very lightly) but saw some people in jeans which made me feel much better! But in general people were pretty dressy. 

The opera house was glorious! So decorative! I'm so glad we were able to do this! Our seats were in the very top balcony. The seats were steep and very high but we were in the center second row so had great views of the stage, orchestra pit, and also the theatre itself. I was surprised how many people came to the opera alone! Pretty much all the people around us came alone. 

The State Opera House, built in 1888
pretty, decorative ceilings in the lobby





We saw Salome which I didn't knowing about besides the brief role she played in the bible and was curious about how they wrote a whole opera about her. This version they set in a modern day time (1920's ish). I wish they had stuck to the classical rendition. The opera was sung in German but above the stage they had a screen with both the Czech and English translations which was helpful! The singing and music were beautiful and powerful. Umm there was also male nudity... because you know, this is Europe and we can have a naked John the Baptist walk around if we want to.  The opera lasted two hours with no separate acts or intermissions. It felt really quick though and I was surprised when it was over that it had been two hours! 

Walking back to the metro at night... so pretty!

When we returned to the hostel we grabbed the bottle of champagne from earlier and went to the common area/bar. It was packed!! I felt completely out of place! Not only did I feel older than most of the other people, but I also was sipping on a bottle of water and eating Pringles (Miguel was slowly sipping on the champagne) while everyone around us had just started a pub crawl and we're taking Jell-O shots. I was also in black tights, flats, my hair pulled back in a bun like style and the place was filled with midriff showing girls and dirty bearded college guys. We needless to say didn't stay long. We were exhausted anyways and we're excited to hit the pillow. 


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